Cutting With A Dado Blade
by Kim Harris
Cutting with a dado blade Dado blades make quick work of cutting rabbets because the blade cuts the cheek and shoulder in one pass. Regardless of the dimensions of the rabbet orient your workpieces to lie face down on the saw table when you make rabbet cuts with a ado blade. The width of the dado will set the height of the rabbet cheek and the height of the blade will determine the depth of the houlder
If the depth of the shoulders exceeds the maximum height of the dado blade, you'll have to make the cheek and shoulder cuts with another saw, such as a band or reciprocating saw.
Install a sacrificial wood fence on a rip fence and set the dads blade to cut wider than needed to cut the Rabbet. Raise the dado into the sacrificial fence so part of the blade will be shrouded by the critical fence. Set the blade height and fenue distance front the blade to match the cheek and shoulders of your rabbet. For rabbets that follow the edge of the wood, make the cut by guiding the wood along the rip fence and over the dado. Dado blades create more nears-lance against a workpiece than a standard saw blade, and the resistance increases the more material you remove in one pass.
Clamp a scrap hold-down block or loather-board above the workpiece to help bold the carpentry workpiece against the saw Table as you cut with a dado blade. When cutting a rabbet along the end via workpiece that's narrower than about to use the miter gauge to support the workplece from behind as you feed it over the blade. Its safer to use the miler gauge in tandem the rip fence in this Instance rather than simply pushing the workpiece through by hand, because the miter gauge provides the broader support and keeps the workpiece from moving. Without the miter gauge, you would be forced to run the narrow edge of the carpentry work piece light against the fence. Thanks for reading this page on cutting with a dado blade.