In basic carpentry installing drywall is not rocket science all you need to complete this capentry job is a little elbow grease and some common sense.
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Cutting and fitting drywall
Take measurements acurately cut the gypsum board(drywall) by first scoring the face side of the paper to the core use a utility knife guide it with a drywall T square,if cutting a square end.The board is then broken along the scored face.The back of the paper can be scored along the fold.The sheet is then broken by snapping the board in the reverse direction.
To make cuts parellel to the long edges, the boared is often gauged with a tape measure and scored with a utility knife. When making parallel cuts to long edges, it is usually necessary to score both sides of the board to obtain a clean break.
Smooth the ragged edges with a drywall rasp, coarse sanding block or knife. A job made drywall rasp can be made by fastening a piece of metal lath to a wooden block.Or you can buy a $5.oo rasp at Home Depot or Lowes. Cut panels should fit easily into place without being forced. Focing the panel may cause it to break.In basic carpentry carpenters are aggresive yet cunning.
More Details On Gypsumboard
Before installing drywall check the framing members for alignment.Stud edges should not be out of alignment more than 1/8 inch with adjacent studs.Drywall is fastened to framing members with nails or screws.Hand pressure should be applied on the panel next to the fastener being driven.This ensures that the panel is in tight contact with the framing member. The use of adhesives reduce the number of nails and screws required.A single or double method of nailing may be used.
The single nailing method in carpentry is a good method with this method nails are spaced a maximum of 7 inches On Center (OC),on ceilings and 8 inches OC on walls into frame members.Nails should be first driven in the center of the board then outward toward the edges.Perimeter fasteners should be at least 3/8 from the edge but not more than an inch from the edge
In carpentry, double nailing method,can be done when the perimeter fasteners are spaced as for single nailing. In the field of the panel,space a first set of nails at 12inches OC. Space a second set 2 1/2 inches from the first set.The first nail is driven is reseated after driving the second nail of each set in the gypsum board.
Screws are spaced 12inches OC on ceilings and 16inches OC on walls when framing members are spaced 16inches OC. If framing members are spaced 24 inches OC, then screw are spaced a maximum of 12 inches OC on both walls and ceiling.
Some of this may sound very technical but once you get use to installing drywall the work becomes more and more easier to the point where you dont have to think hard about what you are doing it just becomes a second nature.
Installing Drywall first to the ceiling then to the walls is very important.Panels may be applied parellel or at right angels, to joist or furring.If applied parellel joints must bear completely on framing. If applied at right angels the edgees fastened where they cross over each framing member. Ends must be fastened completely to joist or furring strips.
Carefully cut and measure the first board to the width an length.Cut edges should be against the wall. Lay out lines on the panel face indicating the location of the studs in order to place fasteners accurately.
Drywall is heavy.So for installing drywall in this project I recommend at least two or more people are needed for ceiling application unless speacil equipment is available. Lift the panel overhead and place it in position.Install two deadmen under the panel to hold it in position.
In basic carpentry deadmen are supports made in the form of a T. They are easily made on the job using 1by3 lumber with short braces from the vertical proplem to the horzontal member.The leg of the support is made about 1/4inch longer to the floor and the ceiling height.The deadmen are wedge between the floor and the panel.They hold the panel in position while it is being fastened.Using deadmen is much easier than trying to hold the sheet into position and fasten it at the same time.
Fasten the sheet in one of the recommended manners.Hold the gypsum board firmly against framing to avoid nail pops or protrusions. Drive fasteners straight into the member.Fasteners that miss supports should be removed.The nail hole should be dimpled so that later it can be covered with joint compound.Contine applying sheets in this manner,staggerging end jointsuntil the ceiling is covered.
To cut a corner out of a panel in case of a protrusion in the wall,make the shortest cut with a drywall saw. Then score and snap the sheet in the othr direction. To cut the circular hole,mark the circle with pencil dividers,twist and push the drywall. Saw through the gypsum board board cut out the hole following the circular line.
Horizontal Application on Walls
Installing Drywall on walls that are less that 8foot 1 high, wallboard is usually installed horizontally,at right angles to the studs.If possible to minimize end joints because they are difficult to conceal. Stagger joints or center them over and below windows and over doors if possible. That way not so much as the joint is visible. End joints should not fall on the same stud as those on the opposite side of the partition.
The top of the panel is installed first. Cut the board to length to fit easily into place without forcing it. Stand the board on edge against the wall.Start fasteners along the top edge opposite of each stud. Raise the sheet so the top edge is firmly against the ceiling.Drive the fasteners home.Fasten the rest of the sheet in the recomended manner.
Measure and cut the bottom panel to width and length.Cut the width about 1/4 narrower than the distance measured. Lay the panel against the wall.Raise it with a drywall footlifter against the bottom edge of the previously installed panel. A drywall footlifter is a tool speacily designed for this purpose and it becomes very handy in carpentry. Fasten the sheet as reccomended. Install all others in a simular manner. Staggering any necessary end joints. Locate the as far from the center of the wall as possible so they will be less conspicuos.Avoid placing end joints over the ends of windows and door headers.This will reduce the potiential for wall board cracks.
Where end joints occur on steel studs, attach the end of the first panel to the open or unsupported edge of the stud.This holds the stud flange in a ridged position for the attachment of the end of the adjoining panel. Making end joints in the opposite manner usually causes thestud edge to deflect.This results at an uneven surface at the joint.
Making Cutouts in Drywall
There are several ways of making cutouts when installing drywall panels in around electrical outlet boxes,ducts,and similar objects.Care must be taken not to make the cutout much larger than the outlet.Most cover plates do not cover by much.If cut to large much extra time has to be taken to patch up around the oulet, replace panel,or install oversize outlet cover plates.
Plumb the sides of the outlet box down to the floor,or up to the previously installed top panel,which ever is more conenient.The panel is placed in position. Lines for the sides of box are plumb on it from the marks of the floor or on the panel. The top an bottom of the box are laid out by measuring down from the bottom edge to the top of the panel.With the saw or utility knife cut the outline of the box.Take care not to injure the vapor retader by pulling the lower end of the sheet away from the wall as you cut.
In this carpenter job a fast, easy and accurate way of making cutouts when installin drywall is with the use of a portible electric drywall cutout tool (Roto Zip).The aproximate location of the center of the outlet box is determined and marked on the panel.Install the drywall over the box.Using the cutout tool a hole is plunged through the panel in the approximate center of the oulet box. Care must be taken not to make contact with wireing the tool is not recommened for use around live wires.The Rotozip is moved in any direction untill the bithits the side of the box to make the cutout. Usually cutouts are made for outlets after all the panels in a room have been installed.
To make cutouts around door openings either mark or cut out panel before it is applied, or cutout after the panel is applied. To make the cutout after the panel is applied use the saw to cut in one direction.Then score it flush with the opening on the back side in the other direction.Bend and score it on the face to make the cutout.
Vertical Application on Walls
Vertical application when installing drywall on walls with long edges parallel to studs, is more practical if the ceiling height is more than 8foot 1 inch or the wall is 4 foot wide or less. Cut the first board to the length and width.The factory edge of the board should fall on the center of the stud and all cut pieces of the gypsum board should be in the corners of the wall.
With a foot lifter,rasie the gypsum board so it is snug against the ceiling the tapered edge should be plumb and centered on the stud. Fasten it in the specific manner. Continue applying with tappered uncut edges against each other. There should be no horizontal joints between foor and ceiling. Make any necessary cuts as previously described when installing drywall.
Drywalling Curved Sufaces
Installing drywall to curved surfaces can be done. However closer spacing of the frame members may be required to prevent flat areas of occuring on the face of the panel.So you may have to add more studs in.If the paper and core of gypsum board is moisteded,they may be bent to curves with shorter radii than when dry. After the boards are thoroughly moistened, they should be stacked on a flat surface. They should be allowed to stand at least one hour before bending and installing drywall. Moistened boards must be handled very carefully. The sheetrock will gain its original hardness after drying.Installing drywall that is marketed as bendable does not need to be wet before it is shaped.I hope that you enjoyed the knowledge that I have given you in installing drywall and this part of carpentry.