Replacing/Removing Wood Paneling
by Steven Segull
The most common forms of significant damage to paneling are water damage and punctures. If paneling has suffered major damage, the only way to repair it is to replace the affected sheets. If the pending is more titans few years old, it may be difficult to locate matching pieces. If you cant find any at lumber yards or building autos, try salvage yards. Buy the panels in advance so that you can condition them re tom heroes installing them. To condition the paneling, place it in the room, standing on its long edge. Place spacers between the slicers m air can circulate around each enc. Let the paneling stand for 24 hours if it will be installed shove ode, and 48 hours if it will be installed below grade.
Before you go any further,Replacing/Removing Wood Paneling find out what's behind the paneling. Building Codes often require that paneling he hacked with wall-board. This is a good idea, even if Code doesn't require it. The support provided by the wallboard keeps the paneling from warping and provides an extra layer of sound protection. However if there is wallboard behind the paneling, it may need repairs as well, particularly if you're dealing with water damage. And removing damaged paneling may he more difficult if it's glued to wallboard or masonry wall. In any case, it's best to have a clear picture or the situation before you start cutting into a wall. Finally, turn (Arise electricity to the area and remove all receptacle covers and switch plates on the sheers of paneling that need to be replaced.
To Replacing/Removing Wood Paneling that's a damaged panel, carefully pry off the baseboard and top moldings. Use a wallboard or puny knife to create a gap, then insert a pry has and pull the trim away from the wall. Remove all the nails. Draw a line from the top of the panel to the bottom, 3" or 4" from each edge of the panel. Holding a framing square
along this line, score along it with a carpet knife. If you insert a pry bar under the panel, beginning at the bottom. Pry the panel up and away from the wall, removing nails as you go Once this center portion o f the panel is 010 a the way, pry off the narrow pieces that remain along the edges. When all of the pond has been removed, scrape away the old adhesive, using a putty knife or chisel.
If the vapor harrier is now accessible, check for damage and make any necessary repairs. r below-grade applications, make sure there Is layer 4 mil polyethylene between the outside walls and the paneling. lilt hasn't been done previously, spray paint r stain the wall surfaces at the points where o panels sleet. Adding a color that matches edges or grooves of the panels camouflages seams, particularly lithe paneling shrinks settles after installation.
Make any necessary cutouts, and test-fit the new panel, making sure the directional arrows on the back arc positioned correctly. Run zig-zag beads of panel adhesive from the top to . the bottom of the panel, placing one bead every 16", about 2" in from each edge, and around every cutout '
Tack the panel into position at the top, using color-matched paneling nails. Following the adhesive manufacturer's directions, use shims to prop the panel away from the wall long enough for 'rho adhesive to set up properly.
When the adhesive has set up, press the panel to the wall and lightly tap along stud lines with a rubber tales, creating a tight bond between the adhesive and the wall. Drive finish nails at the base of the panel to hold it in position while the adhesive dries. To protect the finish of the panel, drive the nails to within 1/8" of the face, then use a nail set to countersink the nails. Replace the baseboard and trills moldings, and fill all the nail links.Thanks fr reading this page on replacing/removing wood paneling