Rip Saw and Back Saw Tips

by Rick Oconnell
(Ohio)


Rip saw and back saw tips; The rip saw, designed to cut parallel to the grain, as in sawing a board lengthwise, usually has a 26-inch blade with 51/2 teeth per inch. The teeth, shaped like miniature chisels with their cutting edges crosswise of the saw, literally chop their way through the wood. Alternate teeth are factory-set outward about IA the blade thickness to opposite sides, to widen the cut and reduce friction.


To start a ripping cut, use the tip portion of the blade (not the butt, as with the crosscut saw), since quality rip-saw teeth are one point finer (61/2) at the tip end. Use a few short pulling strokes to begin, then full strokes. Although the rip saw cuts only on the forward stroke, a sharp one can cut up to 10 feet a minute in nominal 1-inch white pine. A taper ground blade, thinner at the back edge than the toothed edge and thinner at the tip than the butt, reduces sawing effort considerably. (Available in high-quality rip and crosscut saws.) If the saw veers away from the line on long cuts, flex it slightly to-ward the line as you saw, to steer it back on course, but avoid sharp bending.

The backsaw, designed for joint-cutting work, is made in 10- to 16-inch lengths, usually with 12 or 13 teeth per inch, for smooth cuts with or across the grain. (The miter box saw is a longer version of the backsaw—up to 26 inches—and has II teeth per inch.) work against the back of the box and start with a To use a hacksaw in a miter box, first mark the back stroke, holding the handle end tilled slightly work for the cut, then line up the mark with the upward. Level it as you proceed. To cut without a slots, to cut on the waste side of the line. Hold the miter box, use a bench hook, as shown.

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